Piraeus
The fish taverna at the edge of Mikrolimano, since 1932.
Dourabeis has been on the Piraeus waterfront since 1932 — one of the last of the old Mikrolimano fish restaurants that hasn't been smoothed into a tourist destination. The catch is bought daily, the menu changes with the season, and the terrace looks out over the harbour.
Ninety years on the same waterfront. The fish make the journey worthwhile.
1932
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Metaxourgeio
A building that's fed Athens since King Otto's stables stood here, later a tripe-soup kafenio called Bahamas. Seychelles opened in December 2013 and made Avdi Square a destination; closed quietly in 2023 and returned months later under founding chef Fotis Foteinoglou (now also of FITA) alongside Kleomenis Zournatsis and Yannis Markadakis. Same beloved dishes — handmade papardelle with kavourmas and galotyri leads the menu — sourced now from small producers across Greece, with service rebuilt from the ground up. Open daily from 13:30.
Vouliagmeni
The Kavouri branch of the Papaioannou seafood family, set on a former Mythos by Divani site since 2021, with a deck that runs almost to the water. Chef Giorgos Papaioannou applies the same Doric simplicity that built his name at Mikrolimano — restraint over embellishment, the fish doing the talking. Widely considered the most precise of his three Athens kitchens, even at full capacity. Daily, 13:00 to 23:30.
Ano Petralona
A 1930 magheirio on the corner of Troon and Kydantidon in Ano Petralona, now in its third stewardship: founder Yiannis Oikonomou, then Kostas Diamantis for over two decades, and since 2023 Filippos Tsangridis, who bought it intent on changing as little as possible. The same cook, Garoufallia, has run the kitchen for twenty-five years. Fifteen to twenty stewed dishes daily, no microwave, paintings by Alekos Fasianos on the walls, olive trees over the outdoor tables. Closes in on its hundredth year in 2030.
