Erli Athens.

Themistokleous runs from Omonoia Square into the heart of Exarchia, climbing past bookshops, kafeneions, and the neighbourhood's organised noise. Erli holds the corner where the street meets Graviás and Kleisóvis — a compact room that opens from the first coffee of the morning through to late evening, the bar counter running around the room's perimeter.

The drinks are the work of Michalis Kouroumalis, known from his years at Noema in Mykonos. Seven signature cocktails, each a considered riff on a classic: the Kosmos reframes the Cosmopolitan with blackberry and currant; the Piña Colada is built on a blend of white rums, whole coffee beans, and toasted almonds. The wine list runs to 23 labels — Greek and international — curated by sommelier Stefanos Triantafyllidis.

Food tracks the day. Mornings bring croissants and coffee from Mr. Bean; the afternoon shifts toward tapas-format bites — brie bruschetta with onion chutney, buckwheat noodles with smoked salmon and Asian dressing, mini tartare burgers. Music programming fills most evenings. Four friends made the bar, and the name states the terms: at Erli, it's always early for a good moment.